New Patterns: Thirst and Wayfaress
Hello all! Today we’ve got two new patterns to show you, with a focus on cool and creative trim options that you can customize to your heart’s content. Thirst is an easy-level pattern for vests and a shirt, which includes tips for recreating the appliqué embellishment shown on the envelope cover. Wayfaress is an intermediate-level pattern that includes an overskirt and pants with trim and detail variations. Click through for a closer look at both patterns!
Thirst might look a bit complicated at first glance, but this easy-level pattern for a full, billowy shirt and two different vest styles is simpler to sew than it looks. Make the vest in satin or jacquard with lavish embellishments for a vampire or prince, or in a wool or poly suiting for steampunk.
The shorter version of the vest is shown with a shawl collar, but you could make either collar version in either length. Both vest versions lace up the back for a little extra detail and/or breathing room, and close with matching fabric-covered buttons in the front.
The shirt has a standing collar and full gathered sleeves with ruffled button cuffs. We like that this piece will work for lots of different cosplays, and is great in linen, lightweight cotton, or silky fabrics for a more decadent look. If you like, add some lace or embroidery to the cuffs for an extra detail.
On the envelope flap, you’ll find tips for embellishing this pattern with appliqué. In the example, the appliqués – cut from a floral jacquard fabric – are highlighted with a couched cord border, using three rows of satin rattail cord attached by hand for a thick, bold line.
The second pattern for this release, Wayfaress, includes embellished pants and an overskirt for the discerning pirate or airship captain. This is an intermediate-level pattern, so it’s designed with a few more details and variations for you to play with.
The pants look great with or without the overskirt, as they’ve got plenty of detail to stand on their own. This version features piping, contrasting fabric for the yoke and knee flounces, and a side laced detail, plus chain and button embellishments. In the example, the contrast fabric is a faux suede with quilting for extra texture.
This version features topstitching instead of piping in the seams, and additional hip ruffles. The trim is made from bias-cut strips of contrasting fabric, which are sewn on and then slightly frayed to add texture. If you prefer, you can save time by substituting ribbon for the fabric trim. The pattern envelope even includes tips on both topstitching and ribbon and trim selection.
This version is a little simpler, perfect for layering under other pieces, but is still a little more detailed than ordinary pants. The waistline is a little higher, with a waistband added to the top of the yoke, and the ruffles at the waist and knees are omitted. The seams are highlighted with fancy piping; basically a twisted cord with an attached lip to insert in the seam. You can also use regular piping, either purchased or made from a coordinating or contrasting fabric. The ruffles at the knees are omitted, so this is also a good style for tucking into over-the-knee boots.
Finally, the overskirt is embellished with a looped braid, which can be attached by hand or machine depending on the type of trim you select. If using the embellishment pattern shown, make sure your chosen trim is flexible enough to manipulate into all the loops and whorls. While attaching by machine is often faster, doing it by hand gives you more control and makes the stitching less visible. Some trims may also be too bulky to pass smoothly through the machine.
The sample pants are all made from cotton twill, and the overskirt and contrast on the blue pants are faux suede. But there are lots of options out there! Make them from linen or a coarse homespun-look cotton for a more rough-and-tumble look, from wool or poly suiting with satin piping to make them more refined, or even in a rich textured fabric like velveteen. A sturdy fabric with some body will make the flounces stand up more and allow you to pile on more trims and embellishments, while a softer, drapier fabric will give you more movement and less bulk for layered outfits.